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Optoma HD141X

 & M. David Stone Contributing Editor

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Optoma HD141X - Optoma HD141X
3.5 Good

The Bottom Line

Despite some image-quality issues with digital video in the brightest mode, the Optoma HD141X home entertainment projector delivers reasonably good image quality overall.
Best Deal£246

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£246

Pros & Cons

    • Full 1080p in 2D and 3D.
    • Two HDMI connectors, one with Mobile High-Definition Link (MHL).
    • Serious image quality problems with some source material at the brightest setting.
    • Shows rainbow artifacts.

Optoma HD141X Specs

Engine Type DLP
Inputs and Interfaces HDMI
Native Resolution 1920 by 1080
Rated Brightness 3000
Warranty 12
Weight 5.5

If you're looking for a 1080p home entertainment projector, the Optoma HD141X ($599) is a potentially attractive choice. In addition to full HD 1080p resolution, it offers 3D support for video sources like Blu-ray players and cable or FiOS boxes, an audio system comparable to that on a typical TV, and two HDMI ports, so you can easily connect it to, say, a cable box and Blu-ray player to switch between them easily in a permanent installation. It can, in short, serve nicely to supplement, or even replace, the TV in your family room.

The HD141X shares many of its key features with the BenQ HT1075 ($892.60 at Amazon) that I recently reviewed. Both are DLP-based, for example, and both offer two HDMI ports, one of which is Mobile High-Definition Link (MHL) enabled. The MHL support lets you take advantage of possibilities like connecting a Roku Stick for streaming TV.

Both are also definitively home entertainment projectors. That means, in part, that they're designed to be bright enough so you can use them with the ambient light in a typical living room or family room. One of the key differences between them is that the HD141X offers an even higher brightness rating than the BenQ model, at 3,000 lumens.

Home-Entertainment Brightness and Sound

Using the Society of Motion Picture and Television Engineers (SMPTE) recommendations for theater-dark lighting, and assuming a 1.0 gain screen, 3,000 lumens would be bright enough at 1080p's 16:9 aspect ratio for a screen size of roughly 215 to 290 inches, measured diagonally. Even with moderate ambient light, it's bright enough for a roughly 140- to 160-inch image size, which is still enormous for home entertainment use.

For smaller screen sizes or dimmer lighting, you can lower the brightness by switching to Eco mode or a lower-brightness predefined mode, which you might want to do in any case to get the best color quality.

The HD141X, like most DLP projectors, has lower color brightness than white brightness. I measured it at about 22 percent of the white brightness with the brightest predefined mode and at about 80 percent of the white brightness in Cinema mode. So its actual brightness for full-color images is lower than the rating suggests. (For more on color brightness, see Color Brightness: What It Is, Why It Matters.) As a reality check, I found it suitably bright in my tests for a 92-inch image in a family room at night, with the lights on.

Also adding to the HD141X's capabilities as a home entertainment projector is its sound system. The 10-watt mono speaker delivering good sound quality and enough volume to fill any reasonably sized family room. If you want stereo or would simply rather use an external sound system, you can plug it into the projector's mini jack stereo output.

Basics and Setup

As with most home entertainment projectors, the HD141X is smaller and lighter than typical home theater projectors, at just 4 by 12.4 by 8.8 inches (HWD) and weighing 5 pounds 8 ounces. If you don't have a place to set it up permanently, it's easy to store away when you're not using it.

Setup is standard, with a manual focus and manual 1.1x zoom. Connectors for image input are on the side and limited to the two HDMI ports, with the MHL-enabled HDMI port making it easy to connect a compatible phone or tablet.

Both HMDI ports offer full support for 3D from video sources like a Blu-ray player or a cable or FiOS box. The 3D function will work with either DLP-Link or Vesa RF glasses, but not with both at once. Optoma doesn't include any of either kind with the projector.

Performance
Image quality on my tests was good to near-excellent in most ways, with one notable exception. When I connected the projector to a FiOS box and used the Bright predefined mode, both live and recorded digital video showed a high degree of posterization (shading changing suddenly where it should change gradually), particularly with skin tones in close-ups of faces.

Oddly, the same problem doesn't show up with material that was originally recorded on film. More importantly, it also goes away even with live and recorded digital video when you switch to Cinema mode. That makes it only a minor problem. However, it also means that when watching live or recorded digital video, you may be limited to the lower brightness modes, which may in turn limit the size of the image you can use with any given level of lighting.

Aside from the posterization under these specific conditions, the image quality is more than acceptable, with the projector doing a good job with skin tones and shadow detail (details based on shading in dark areas). I saw some minor judder (the jerkiness in movement inherent in movies filmed at 24 frames per second), but not enough to be a problem.

I also saw some rainbow artifacts (flashes of red, green, and blue), which is typical of most DLP projectors. However, I didn't see them often enough to consider them annoying except in one black and white clip. If you don't see these artifacts easily, you might not see any. Even if you're sensitive to them, it's still unlikely that you'll find them bothersome unless you plan to watch black and white movies.

Image quality for 3D is essentially the same as for 2D for those aspects of quality that both modes share. In addition, I didn't see any crosstalk, and saw only a hint of 3D-related motion artifacts.

I measured the HD141X lag time at just 33 milliseconds in Game mode and 33.8 milliseconds in Cinema mode using the Leo Bodnar Video Input Lag Tester. That works out to a two-frame lag at 60 frames per second, which is better than most projectors can manage.

If you want a projector that absolutely can't show rainbow artifacts, consider a three-chip LCD model like the Editors' Choice Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 2030 ($895.00 at Amazon) . And if you need a projector for a small room, you might prefer one like the BenQ W1080ST, which has a short-throw lens that can throw a big image from close to the screen. If you don't see rainbow artifacts easily, however—or don't find them bothersome—and you don't need a short throw, the Optoma HD141X offers a suitably bright, acceptably high-quality image at an attractive price.

Best Projector Picks

Further Reading

Final Thoughts

Optoma HD141X - Optoma HD141X

Optoma HD141X Review

3.5 Good

Despite some image-quality issues with digital video in the brightest mode, the Optoma HD141X home entertainment projector delivers reasonably good image quality overall.

Get It Now
Best Deal£246

Buy It Now

£246

About Our Expert

M. David Stone

M. David Stone

Contributing Editor

My Experience

Most of my current work for PCMag is about printers and projectors, but I've covered a wide variety of other subjects—in more than 4,000 pieces, over more than 40 years—including both computer-related areas and others ranging from ape language experiments, to politics, to cosmology, to space colonies. I've written for PCMag.com from its start, and for PC Magazine before that, as a Contributor, then a Contributing Editor, then as the Lead Analyst for Printers, Scanners, and Projectors, and now, after a short hiatus, back to Contributing Editor.

I'm pretty sure I'm the only person who worked on every "Project Printer" blockbuster PCMag ever produced, often writing 15 or more reviews for the year's big printer blowout. (I snuck in a single review one year when I was writing a book, strictly so I could keep that claim alive.)

I've always worked for PCMag as a freelancer, which has freed me to take time away to write nine books, be a major contributor to four others, and write for other publications, including Wired, Computer Shopper, Projector Central, and Science Digest, where I was Computers Editor. I also wrote a computer column at one point for The Newark Star-Ledger.

Although I started my career primarily as a science (mostly physics and astronomy) and science-fiction writer (published in Analog), my non-computer-related work runs the gamut from the Project Data Book for NASA's Upper Atmosphere Research Satellite (written for GE's Astro-Space Division) to the script for a video overview of a top company in the gaming industry (that would be gambling, not video games). My books include The Underground Guide to Color Printers (Addison-Wesley), Troubleshooting Your PC (Microsoft Press), and Faster, Smarter Digital Photography (Microsoft Press).

Having covered a wide range of subjects, I've developed a serial expertise in many of them. The ones most relevant to my current work at PCMag.com are all imaging technologies.

The Technology I Use

I buy new PCs for my writing desk infrequently, because it takes a week or more to customize the settings the way I want them. At the moment, I have an HP Envy tower running Windows 10, but it's old enough to have a Windows 7 sticker on it. Its latest lease on a longer life is courtesy of a newly installed 500GB Samsung SSD 870 EVO.

Elsewhere in my house is an assortment of older and newer PCs. The older ones are dedicated to specific tasks, like the one I've been using to slowly digitize all the paper stored in my filing cabinets, while the newer ones are testbeds for printer and projector reviews.

For writing, I use Microsoft Word 2003, because I find it too annoying to take my hands off the keyboard to give mouse commands using the Ribbon. My workhorse printers are a Xerox Phaser 6280 color laser and a Dymo LabelWriter 450 Twin Turbo for labels and stamps. I also have a Canon Pixma iP8720 for printing photos, and a Canon ImageFormula DR-C225 for scanning.

My first computer was bought to replace my IBM Selectric for writing. After rejecting both the IBM PC (which had just been introduced) and the Apple II because of the keyboards, I chose a Vector Graphics Vector 3 CP/M machine with dual floppies. The first MS-DOS machine I was willing to use for writing was the IBM AT, with its much-improved keyboard compared with the original PC and its gargantuan 20MB hard drive.

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