PCMag editors select and review products independently. If you buy through affiliate links, we may earn commissions, which help support our testing.

Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 2030

 & M. David Stone Contributing Editor

Our team tests, rates, and reviews more than 1,500 products each year to help you make better buying decisions and get more from technology.

Our Expert
LOOK INSIDE PC LABS HOW WE TEST
65 EXPERTS
43 YEARS
41,500+ REVIEWS
Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 2030 - Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 2030
4.0 Excellent

The Bottom Line

The Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 2030 home entertainment projector delivers high-quality 1080p images, guaranteed free of rainbow artifacts, for both 2D and 3D.

Buy It Now

Pros & Cons

    • Inexpensive.
    • Full 1080p HD in 2D and 3D.
    • Three-chip LCD means no rainbow effect.
    • Two HDMI connectors with one MHL-enabled.
    • No 3D glasses included.

Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 2030 Specs

Engine Type LCD
Inputs and Interfaces Analog VGA
Inputs and Interfaces HDMI
Native Resolution 1920 by 1080
Rated Brightness 2000
Warranty 24
Weight 6.4

One of Epson's least expensive 1080p projectors for 2D and 3D, the LCD-based Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 2030($895.00 at Amazon) leaves out advanced features that you'll find in pricier models—including lens shift, for example, which lets you adjust the image position without moving the projector. However, it adds MHL-support, so you can, among other things, plug in a Roku Stick for streaming TV. More important, it makes little to no compromise on image quality, making it a shoo-in as Editors' Choice for 1080p home entertainment projector.

Like the 720p Editors' Choice Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 750HD($1,495.00 at Amazon), the 2030 is indeed a home entertainment projector rather than a home theater projector, despite the home cinema part of the name. The two giveaways are the rated brightness and the built-in audio system.

By definition, a home theater projector, like the Editors' Choice Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5020UBe($1,777.06 at Amazon), is designed almost exclusively for permanent installation in a room with theater dark lighting. The dark room requires a low brightness level for the screen sizes typical for home use, and there's no point in including an audio system since most home theater projectors are installed along with external, high-quality sound systems.

Home entertainment projectors, in contrast, can serve as a substitute or supplement for a TV. They have to be bright enough to stand up to the ambient light in a living room or family room, and generally include their own sound system. The 2030's 2,000 lumen rating puts it solidly in the home entertainment category. In addition, its built-in sound system is a match for a typical large-screen TV, with good to excellent sound quality and enough volume for a small family room or living room.

Another potential role for a home entertainment projector is to use it as a portable, which also benefits from built-in audio. If you don't want to install the projector permanently, you can store it away when you're not using it, move it from room to room, or even use it in your backyard or take it a friend's house. At 6.4 pounds, the 2030 is well suited for this kind of use as well.

Setup

Setting up the 2030 is standard fare, with the projector offering a 1.2x manual zoom to give you some flexibility in how far you can place it from the screen for a given size image. For my tests, I used a 78-inch wide (98-inch diagonal) image, with the projector 94 inches from the screen.

Connectors on the back panel include two HDMI ports along with the usual VGA and composite video ports, with the VGA ports doubling for component video. In addition, there's USB A port so you can show files directly from a USB memory key. One of the HMDI ports is MHL-enabled, so you can use it for, say, a Roku stick or other MHL device, and use the other for a Blu-ray player or a cable or FIOS box. Both support all of the HDMI 1.4a 3D formats. Other ports include an audio out for an external sound system.

2D and 3D performance

For the 2030's native 16:9 aspect ratio, 2,000 lumens is bright enough for a roughly 115-inch diagonal image in moderate ambient light with 1.0 gain screen. For a smaller screen size or lower light levels, you can choose a setting with lower brightness, like Cinema mode, set the lamp to Eco mode, or both.

One of the key advantages for the 2030 over DLP-based competition is that it's guaranteed not to show rainbow artifacts. These are always a potential problem for single-chip DLP projectors, because of the way they produce colors, and they can be annoying for anyone who sees them easily. Three-chip LCD projectors avoid the problem because they use a different approach for creating color.

Quite apart from being rainbow-free, the 2030 did a near-excellent job on image quality for 2D video in my tests. The projector handled skin tones well, color quality was excellent, and the image was appropriately crisp for HD resolution. I saw some minimal to moderate noise in solid areas in some scenes and some slight jitter when the camera panned across the scene in one clip, but neither was obvious enough to consider it a serious problem.

Very much on the plus side, I didn't see any posterization (shading changing suddenly where it should change gradually) and saw only a slight loss of shadow detail (details based on shading in dark areas) in scenes that tend to cause those problems. The 2030 includes an auto iris, which closes down to help make blacks darker in dark scenes. Auto-iris features can sometimes be distracting, with a visible lag before they react when switching to a scene with different lighting. However, I didn't see any lag at all with the 2030.

For 3D images, the 2030 offers essentially the same strong points as in 2D for all the issues that both modes share, including color quality. It also did well for issues specific to 3D. I saw no crosstalk and only the slightest hint of 3D-related motion artifacts. However, Epson doesn't provide any of its RF 3D-glasses with the projector. This helps keep the cost down, but if you want 3D, you'll have to buy glasses. Epson's are $99 each, with compatible versions available for less.

The Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 2030 is an impressively capable projector for the price, particularly if you want it for 2D only. If you want to use it for 3D, the extra cost of the glasses effectively raises the price, but that's offset somewhat by a long lamp life, at 5,000 hours in Normal mode and 6,000 hours in Eco mode. That helps minimize the running cost, which also helps make the projector Editors' Choice. If you're looking for a low-cost 1080p 2D and 3D projector, and particularly if you want one that's guaranteed not to show rainbow artifacts, the Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 2030 may well be the projector you want.

Best Projector Picks

Further Reading

Final Thoughts

Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 2030 - Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 2030

Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 2030 Review

4.0 Excellent

The Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 2030 home entertainment projector delivers high-quality 1080p images, guaranteed free of rainbow artifacts, for both 2D and 3D.

Get It Now

Buy It Now

About Our Expert

M. David Stone

M. David Stone

Contributing Editor

My Experience

Most of my current work for PCMag is about printers and projectors, but I've covered a wide variety of other subjects—in more than 4,000 pieces, over more than 40 years—including both computer-related areas and others ranging from ape language experiments, to politics, to cosmology, to space colonies. I've written for PCMag.com from its start, and for PC Magazine before that, as a Contributor, then a Contributing Editor, then as the Lead Analyst for Printers, Scanners, and Projectors, and now, after a short hiatus, back to Contributing Editor.

I'm pretty sure I'm the only person who worked on every "Project Printer" blockbuster PCMag ever produced, often writing 15 or more reviews for the year's big printer blowout. (I snuck in a single review one year when I was writing a book, strictly so I could keep that claim alive.)

I've always worked for PCMag as a freelancer, which has freed me to take time away to write nine books, be a major contributor to four others, and write for other publications, including Wired, Computer Shopper, Projector Central, and Science Digest, where I was Computers Editor. I also wrote a computer column at one point for The Newark Star-Ledger.

Although I started my career primarily as a science (mostly physics and astronomy) and science-fiction writer (published in Analog), my non-computer-related work runs the gamut from the Project Data Book for NASA's Upper Atmosphere Research Satellite (written for GE's Astro-Space Division) to the script for a video overview of a top company in the gaming industry (that would be gambling, not video games). My books include The Underground Guide to Color Printers (Addison-Wesley), Troubleshooting Your PC (Microsoft Press), and Faster, Smarter Digital Photography (Microsoft Press).

Having covered a wide range of subjects, I've developed a serial expertise in many of them. The ones most relevant to my current work at PCMag.com are all imaging technologies.

The Technology I Use

I buy new PCs for my writing desk infrequently, because it takes a week or more to customize the settings the way I want them. At the moment, I have an HP Envy tower running Windows 10, but it's old enough to have a Windows 7 sticker on it. Its latest lease on a longer life is courtesy of a newly installed 500GB Samsung SSD 870 EVO.

Elsewhere in my house is an assortment of older and newer PCs. The older ones are dedicated to specific tasks, like the one I've been using to slowly digitize all the paper stored in my filing cabinets, while the newer ones are testbeds for printer and projector reviews.

For writing, I use Microsoft Word 2003, because I find it too annoying to take my hands off the keyboard to give mouse commands using the Ribbon. My workhorse printers are a Xerox Phaser 6280 color laser and a Dymo LabelWriter 450 Twin Turbo for labels and stamps. I also have a Canon Pixma iP8720 for printing photos, and a Canon ImageFormula DR-C225 for scanning.

My first computer was bought to replace my IBM Selectric for writing. After rejecting both the IBM PC (which had just been introduced) and the Apple II because of the keyboards, I chose a Vector Graphics Vector 3 CP/M machine with dual floppies. The first MS-DOS machine I was willing to use for writing was the IBM AT, with its much-improved keyboard compared with the original PC and its gargantuan 20MB hard drive.

Read full bio