PCMag editors select and review products independently. If you buy through affiliate links, we may earn commissions, which help support our testing.

How to Build: A Home Server

Our team tests, rates, and reviews more than 1,500 products each year to help you make better buying decisions and get more from technology.

Our Expert
LOOK INSIDE PC LABS HOW WE TEST
65 EXPERTS
43 YEARS
41,500+ REVIEWS

You Can Trust Our Reviews

Since 1982, PCMag has tested and rated thousands of products to help you make better buying decisions. Read our editorial mission & see how we test.

Deeper Dive: Our Top Tested Picks

    Buying Guide: How to Build: A Home Server

    Today it is not uncommon to walk into the average U.S. home and find multiple computers networked together, sharing data. Investigate further and you'll find that most of these networks are configured via inexpensive solutions such as a router or an access point, with no central point to maintain structure. These setups can become complex as the network size increases, especially because sharing permissions must be configured, and the network's overall reliability can decline. In short, having a centralized location at home to back up, share, and remotely access data is more important today than it was a few years ago. What's more, you can easily build your own personal home server for relatively little money compared with what's available at retail, and configuration (thanks to Windows Homer Server OS) is a breeze—whether you're using it for personal file management or sharing with others. Follow our step-by-step guide and your home server will be up in no time.

    The ASUS T3-P5945GCX bare-bones kit (case/motherboard/power supply/multi-card reader for $161) has a relatively small footprint, as today's servers should. It can support two hard drives and features a front sliding door. We opted for a low-cost, low-powered Intel E1200 dual-core Celeron ($50), because a high-performance CPU is not necessary for a file server. After all, the focus is hosting files, not running Adobe's CS3. Although 512MB of system memory is more than enough for a home server, we chose to go with a single gigabyte stick of Crucial DDR2 SRAM for the setup. It costs just $22, and it will help ease the load during use. A 500GB Western Digital Caviar SATA drive (OEM $80) is more than enough to get started, because you can always add a secondary drive. Finally, a dual-layer Lite-On DVD burner can transfer all of those backups you have archived onto DVD.

    We chose Windows Home Server as the operating system for its stability, security, and user-friendly interface. Sure, if you build a Linux server you don't have to pay for the OS, but Windows Home Server is so easy to configure, even for those with little to no experience, that it's worth its cost. Also, its integration and compatibility with Windows XP and Windows Vista make it future-proof, and give it broad compatibility. The Windows Home Server Client Console (bundled with the OS) allows you to manage the server remotely, eliminating the need for a monitor or keyboard (although a monitor and keyboard are required initially, to load the OS). Since there is currently no retail version of Windows Home Server (the only way to obtain a copy is through OEM distributors such as Newegg), there is no technical support from Microsoft; but fret not—there is plenty of useful help one Google click away.

    Finally, installing Windows Home Server may seem like a daunting prospect. Indeed, it's a process in itself, but one that shouldn't be that much of a chore, as the GUI is user-friendly.

    Our DIY home server came to roughly $467, and all of the components were readily available via Newegg. The build should take you roughly 25 to 30 minutes, and then you'll be sharing files the easy way in no time.

    Components

    OS: Windows Home Server (OEM)
    Case/Motherboard/Power Supply: ASUS T3-P5945GCX
    CPU (includes heat sink): Intel Celeron E1200 (1.6 GHz)
    Memory: Crucial 1GB DDR2 533 (PC4200) System Memory
    Optical Drive: Lite-On Super AllWrite DVD Burner
    Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD5000AAKS 500GB 7200 RPM (OEM)

    Next: Steps 1-5

    Step 1
    1. The ASUS T3-P5945GCX bare-bones kit does some of the work for you, by shipping with the motherboard and power supply preinstalled. A multi-card reader is also present for quickly adding data from mobile phones and digital cameras. Now, before you begin, is a good time to examine the chassis for errors such as damage or loose cables. To start, remove the three screws in the rear of the case, and lift the entire panel off.

    Step 2
    2. You'll need to lift the power supply unit to work inside the chassis. Begin by removing the two screws securing the power supply to the case. Lift the power supply unit upward at a 90-degree angle. Be careful to hold the power supply firmly when lifting to avoid causing damage to the other system components.

    Step 3
    3. Although the underlying pins on the Intel Celeron E1200 are less prone to damage than those found on AMD socket AM2 CPUs, avoid touching or placing the pin side of the CPU on any surface. Begin CPU installation by pulling the socket's lever sideways, then lifting it up to a 90-degree angle. Lift the metal plate to reveal the socket. The two rounded edges protruding inward toward the socket holes on the CPU will be your guide when you insert the CPU into the socket.

    Step 4
    4. Align the indentations on opposite sides of the CPU with the rounded edges of the socket, and fit the CPU into place. It should slip into the socket with very little force. Retract the metal plate and push the socket lever down to secure the CPU. Make sure the indentations are aligned properly before retracting the socket lever, to avoid cracking the CPU.

    Step 5
    5. Thermal compound (which assists in CPU cooling) is factory-applied to the heat sink that ships with the Celeron E1200; this saves you time. Place the heat sink on top of the CPU, aligning the heat sink's pegs to the four holes on the motherboard. Twist each peg handle counterclockwise to lock in place.

    Next: Steps 6-9

    Step 6
    6. RAM installation takes seconds to install, and is just as easy to replace. Locate DIMM socket 1 and unlock the retaining clips by pushing them outward. Align a memory module on the socket so as to match the notch on the pin side of the module with the break on the socket. Seat the memory module firmly in the socket, and secure by retracting the retaining clips. A secondary slot is available for future expansion, but one stick will do just fine.

    Step 7
    7. SATA cables allow faster access to hard drive data over standard IDE, and the connectors are easier to attach as well. Connect a SATA power cable to the power supply unit, and attach the other end to the hard drive. Attach one SATA data cable to the motherboard, and the other end to the hard drive. Slide the hard drive into the bay, and secure with screws.

    Step 8
    8. Unlike most cases, the ASUS T3 series does not require you to remove the 5.25-inch drive cover to install the optical drive. Simply attach a SATA power cable from the power supply to the optical drive, and attach the ends of one SATA data cable to the motherboard and optical drive. Load the optical drive into the case from above the chassis, and secure with screws.

    Step 9
    9. Reseat the case panel, and flip the power switch to the "I" position. In order to install Windows Home Server, you'll need a monitor and keyboard; but after installing and configuring your settings, they can be removed. You're ready to start sharing!

    For details on how to configure Windows Home Server for the first time, check out our piece "Build a Home Entertainment Center with Windows Home Server."

    This article originally appeared on PCMag.com.

    About Our Expert