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Optoma HD39HDR

 & M. David Stone Contributing Editor

Our team tests, rates, and reviews more than 1,500 products each year to help you make better buying decisions and get more from technology.

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Optoma HD39HDR - Optoma HD39HDR
3.5 Good

The Bottom Line

Optoma's HD39HDR offers low input lag for fast reaction time in games, plus sufficient brightness for a large movie or game image to stand up easily to ambient light in a family room.

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Pros & Cons

    • Low cost for the feature set
    • High brightness
    • Full HD (1080p) resolution with HDR support; also accepts 4K HDR input
    • Low input lag for fast reaction time when gaming
    • Supports 3D
    • With default settings, some hues are noticeably off for both SDR and HDR content
    • High brightness works well in ambient light, but means disappointing blacks and three-dimensionality in dark rooms

Optoma HD39HDR Specs

Dimensions (HWD) 4.5 by 12.4 by 9.5 inches
Engine Type DLP
Inputs and Interfaces HDMI
Inputs and Interfaces RGB Passthrough
Inputs and Interfaces VGA/Component
Maximum Resolution 3840 by 2160 HDR; Full HD 3D
Native Resolution 1920 by 1080
Rated Brightness 4000
Warranty 1
Weight 7.7

Designed both for gaming and for watching movies and TV, the $799 Optoma HD39HDR is one of a growing number of 1080p home projectors that can accept a 4K UHD (3,840-by-2,160-pixel) HDR signal and down-convert the resolution to 1080p. Some projectors in this category accept the input without really offering any of the benefits that high dynamic range promises for a wider color gamut or range of brightness levels. Others, including the Optoma, make good use of HDR. In my tests, the HD39HDR delivered more-vibrant color and far better shadow detail when I played the 4K HDR versions of movies on my Blu-ray player than when playing the 1080p SDR versions of the same titles. 


Games and Movies...With the Lights On

Optoma includes the HD39HDR on its lists of both gaming projectors and home entertainment projectors for watching movies and TV in ambient light. For games, it offers low lag to speed up your reaction time; Optoma rates it for up to 8.4 milliseconds (ms) at 1080p/120Hz, and I measured it by a Leo Bodnar meter at 16.4ms at 1080p/60Hz. For both games and home entertainment with the lights on, it delivers a bright picture, reflected in its rating of 4,000 ANSI lumens. 

Optoma HD39HDR front view

Another feature of particular interest to gamers is the projector's compact size, which makes it easy to bring to a friend's house, or to store when not in use. The sound system, with an onboard 10-watt speaker, can also come in handy, thanks to robust-enough volume to fill a small family room. That said, the sound quality is marginal enough that you'll likely want to plug an external sound system into the 3.5mm audio-out jack. Note, too, that Optoma doesn't include a carrying case for the projector.

The HD39HDR's high brightness is thanks in part to its six-segment RYGCWB (Red, Yellow, Green, Cyan, White, Blue) color wheel, paired with the single 1,920-by-1,080 DLP chip. The yellow panel helps it produce a brighter, more vibrant yellow than many DLP projectors offer, while the white panel lets it deliver a brighter image than it could without one. As with any projector with a white panel—including, for example, the BenQ TH585—this also affects color accuracy. DLP projectors without white panels in their color wheels, like the BenQ HT2150ST, tend to offer better color accuracy, but they also tend to have lower brightness, and are better choices for traditional home theater in a dark room.


Setup and Image Quality

Setting up the HD39HDR is standard fare. At 7.7 pounds and 4.5 by 12.4 by 9.5 inches (HWD), the body is easy to handle. The 1.3x zoom offers flexibility for positioning, and the +/- 40 degree vertical keystone lets you square off the image if you need to tilt the projector to point at the screen.

Image inputs include two HDMI ports—one for up to 4K UHD HDR, and one for up to 1080p. After setting up the projector for a 90-inch diagonal image, I measured it at 9 feet and 4 inches from the screen. 

Optoma HD39HDR rear ports

Contrast, black level, and the sense of three-dimensionality for dark scenes is good enough for both SDR and HDR for most people to find acceptable for viewing in a dark room. Videophiles would count it lacking on all three scores, but that's a minor issue at most for a projector meant primarily for use in ambient light. High brightness is more important when lights are on, because it helps counter the ambient light's tendency to brighten up black levels and eliminate the benefit of truly high contrast.

A Look at the Color

Some colors in both SDR and HDR input were a little off in my tests. With SDR input, blues, greens, and yellows were a little darker than they should be. With HDR input, colors were brighter, but what should have been a bright yellow dress in one scene bordered on bright orange instead. However, the projector handled flesh tones well with both SDR and HDR, while memory colors like blue skies and oceans and green leaves were well within a realistic range.

That said, if you want to improve the color accuracy, or otherwise tune the image, the menus offer all the settings you need. And if you're willing to pay for professional calibration, the projector supports ISF Day, ISF Night, and ISF 3D modes. 

Optoma HD39HDR top view

Short of calibration, the preferred mode for SDR input will depend largely on the level of ambient light and the screen size you choose. The sRGB mode offered the best color accuracy with default settings in my tests, but Cinema was a close second and a little brighter, while the brighter-still HDR Sim delivered the best contrast for dark scenes. Game mode offered even better contrast, and it also brightened up dark areas, making details in those areas easier to see. That's useful for games, since it lets you see details quickly, but it tends to make dark scenes in movies brighter than they should be. 

Optoma HD39HDR left angle

As is typical, the brightest mode (called Bright) had a noticeably green tint. However, the bias was less than with some projectors. Most buyers should consider it usable on an occasional basis if they need the extra brightness. 

For HDR input, the HD39HDR automatically switches to, and only allows, its one HDR picture mode, which is well worth using. In my tests, the HDR versions of movies on disc delivered more-vibrant color and showed more shadow detail than the same movies in 1080p SDR format. 

Assessing the Brightness

Using Society of Motion Picture and Television Engineers (SMPTE) recommendations, 4,000 lumens is bright enough for a 160-inch, 1.0-gain screen in moderately bright ambient light. However, the four modes with best picture quality—Cinema, sRGB, HDR Sim, and Game—are nowhere near as bright.

For my formal tests in a dark room, I chose Cinema mode to fill a 90-inch white screen. For informal tests in a family room with lots of windows, even the sRGB mode was bright enough to light up an 80-inch, 1.0 gain screen both with lights on at night and late in the day with the sun low in the sky. HDR Sim mode provided a more watchable picture with bright sunlight outside. 

Optoma HD39HDR right angle

As for the 3D functionality, like most of its competition, the HD39HDR works with DLP-link glasses and offers only one 3D picture mode (unless you count the ISF mode that needs calibration before it becomes available). It also provides an unusually bright image for 3D, compared to its 2D modes. I saw no crosstalk in my tests and only minor 3D-related motion artifacts by today's standards. 

Like any single-chip projector, the HD39HDR can be prone to exhibiting rainbow artifacts—red-green-blue flashes—but I saw these only rarely, and they weren't as obvious as with many DLP projectors. Even so, if you tend to see these artifacts readily (or don't know whether you do), be sure to buy the projector from a source that allows returns without a restocking fee, in case you find them bothersome.


Lights, Projector, Action!

The Optoma HD39HDR is designed for rooms with ambient light—lots of it. You can use it in a dark room, as well, but if that's your primary interest for a projector, you're better off considering one that's designed for dark-room viewing, like the BenQ HT2150ST. For lights-on viewing, you also might want to take a look at the BenQ TH585, which costs less than the HD39HDR but isn't as bright.

Optoma HD39HDR

For any given level of ambient light, the HD39HDR is enough of a light cannon, versus the TH585, to give you an equally bright, satisfyingly high-quality picture at a larger size. So when you turn the HD39HDR on, you'll rarely need to turn any lights off. 

Final Thoughts

Optoma HD39HDR - Optoma HD39HDR

Optoma HD39HDR

3.5 Good

Optoma's HD39HDR offers low input lag for fast reaction time in games, plus sufficient brightness for a large movie or game image to stand up easily to ambient light in a family room.

Get It Now

Buy It Now

About Our Expert

M. David Stone

M. David Stone

Contributing Editor

My Experience

Most of my current work for PCMag is about printers and projectors, but I've covered a wide variety of other subjects—in more than 4,000 pieces, over more than 40 years—including both computer-related areas and others ranging from ape language experiments, to politics, to cosmology, to space colonies. I've written for PCMag.com from its start, and for PC Magazine before that, as a Contributor, then a Contributing Editor, then as the Lead Analyst for Printers, Scanners, and Projectors, and now, after a short hiatus, back to Contributing Editor.

I'm pretty sure I'm the only person who worked on every "Project Printer" blockbuster PCMag ever produced, often writing 15 or more reviews for the year's big printer blowout. (I snuck in a single review one year when I was writing a book, strictly so I could keep that claim alive.)

I've always worked for PCMag as a freelancer, which has freed me to take time away to write nine books, be a major contributor to four others, and write for other publications, including Wired, Computer Shopper, Projector Central, and Science Digest, where I was Computers Editor. I also wrote a computer column at one point for The Newark Star-Ledger.

Although I started my career primarily as a science (mostly physics and astronomy) and science-fiction writer (published in Analog), my non-computer-related work runs the gamut from the Project Data Book for NASA's Upper Atmosphere Research Satellite (written for GE's Astro-Space Division) to the script for a video overview of a top company in the gaming industry (that would be gambling, not video games). My books include The Underground Guide to Color Printers (Addison-Wesley), Troubleshooting Your PC (Microsoft Press), and Faster, Smarter Digital Photography (Microsoft Press).

Having covered a wide range of subjects, I've developed a serial expertise in many of them. The ones most relevant to my current work at PCMag.com are all imaging technologies.

The Technology I Use

I buy new PCs for my writing desk infrequently, because it takes a week or more to customize the settings the way I want them. At the moment, I have an HP Envy tower running Windows 10, but it's old enough to have a Windows 7 sticker on it. Its latest lease on a longer life is courtesy of a newly installed 500GB Samsung SSD 870 EVO.

Elsewhere in my house is an assortment of older and newer PCs. The older ones are dedicated to specific tasks, like the one I've been using to slowly digitize all the paper stored in my filing cabinets, while the newer ones are testbeds for printer and projector reviews.

For writing, I use Microsoft Word 2003, because I find it too annoying to take my hands off the keyboard to give mouse commands using the Ribbon. My workhorse printers are a Xerox Phaser 6280 color laser and a Dymo LabelWriter 450 Twin Turbo for labels and stamps. I also have a Canon Pixma iP8720 for printing photos, and a Canon ImageFormula DR-C225 for scanning.

My first computer was bought to replace my IBM Selectric for writing. After rejecting both the IBM PC (which had just been introduced) and the Apple II because of the keyboards, I chose a Vector Graphics Vector 3 CP/M machine with dual floppies. The first MS-DOS machine I was willing to use for writing was the IBM AT, with its much-improved keyboard compared with the original PC and its gargantuan 20MB hard drive.

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