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Kodak Flik HD9 Smart Projector

 & M. David Stone Contributing Editor

Our team tests, rates, and reviews more than 1,500 products each year to help you make better buying decisions and get more from technology.

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Kodak Flik HD9 Smart Projector - Kodak Flik HD9 Smart Projector
3.5 Good

The Bottom Line

The Kodak Flik HD9 produces better image quality than most competitors, making it a decent mini projector as long as you don't mind that it's not battery-powered and that low brightness limits its usable image size.

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Pros & Cons

    • 1,920-by-1,080-pixel native resolution
    • Accepts 4K input and HDR
    • Free of rainbow artifacts
    • Android TV
    • Includes Netflix app
    • Only one HDMI port
    • Low brightness

Kodak Flik HD9 Smart Projector Specs

Dimensions (HWD) 5.9-by-5.4-by-4.3
Engine Type LCD
Inputs and Interfaces HDMI
Inputs and Interfaces USB
Maximum Resolution 3840 by 2160 30Hz
Native Resolution 1920 by 1080
Rated Brightness 200
Warranty 1
Weight 3.1

The Kodak Flik HD9 Smart Projector ($249.99) is a small step down in price from the Kodak Flik HD10, but it's also a little more capable in two surprising ways. Both projectors display in full HD (1080p, or 1,920-by-1,080-pixel) native resolution, but the HD9 also accepts 4K HDR input via HDMI (down-converting the image to 1080p) and handles high dynamic range (HDR) content visibly well, neither of which are officially supported features. On the downside, in testing we found that it also delivers a little less brightness than its 200-lumen rating promises. If you care more about image quality than image size, you'll be happy with the tradeoff.


Design: A Lunchbox-Style Projector

Setting up the HD9 is straightforward. It's basically a small box with a handle on top, though at 5.9 by 5.4 by 4.3 inches (HWD) and 3.1 pounds, it's easy to move from one spot to another even if you ignore the handle. Setup involves little more than connecting the power cord and a wired or wireless video source, pointing the lens at whatever you're using for a screen, and focusing.

As is typical for mini projectors, you'll find no optical zoom. Kodak includes a digital zoom, but even more than with most projectors, it's best to ignore it and adjust image size by moving the projector. Digital zoom lowers brightness, and even at its brightest, the HD9 could use a boost. You'll want to wring out every lumen you can get from it. You should also avoid using the digital keystone correction, for the same reason.

(Credit: Kodak)

The Android TV setup is standard, using Wi-Fi as the only choice for connecting to the internet. As with more and more Android TV-based projectors—though far from all—the HD9 includes a Netflix app that's both easy to use and worked without problems in my tests. The projector uses a single remote for controlling both streaming and the projector settings.

The projector's ports are on the rear panel. They include one HDMI input and a USB Type-A port for reading files from USB memory, powering an HDMI dongle, and loading firmware updates.

(Credit: Kodak)

Kodak rates the HD9's brightness at 200 lumens, which according to the Society of Motion Picture and Television Engineers (SMPTE) recommendations is bright enough for a 55-to-74-inch, 16:9 image when using a 1.0-gain screen in a dark room. In my tests, I settled on a 39-inch diagonal image size for the minimum brightness I felt comfortable with on a 1.1-gain screen, which boosts brightness by 10%. Anything larger felt too dim to watch without tiring my eyes. That's roughly the size I would expect to need for viewing a 110-lumen projector's image in a dark room.

While the low brightness could be a deal-breaker for some people, a key feature the HD9 shares with the HD10 and with some other mini home entertainment models, including the Vankyo Performance V700W and NexiGo PJ20, is that it doesn't show rainbow artifacts. Kodak was unable to confirm design details beyond the fact that the HD9 uses a single, large LCD and a white LED light source. However, that's enough to know that it takes the same approach as the HD10, V700W, and PJ20 of using an LCD matrix of 5,760 by 1,080 pixels along with red, green, and blue filters over individual cells. Each set of the three primaries serves as a single pixel, giving a 1,920-by-1,080-pixel resolution. The white light shining through the filters lets it project all three primary colors at once, instead of one at a time, giving the rainbow-free image. The LED light source is rated at 30,000 hours.

The onboard sound system is built around dual 3-watt speakers. In my tests, it delivered usable though somewhat clipped audio at suitable volume for a small or medium-size family room. You can also connect an external sound system via either the 3.5mm audio-out port or Bluetooth.


Testing The Flik HD9: Surprisingly Effective Image Quality

The HD9 menus include three predefined picture modes and one Personal mode, which most other projectors would call a User mode. After some preliminary testing, I chose it for my viewing tests, both because it was one of the brighter modes, and because it was the only one that lets you adjust settings for brightness—which I tweaked for my tests—as well as contrast, hue, saturation, and sharpness. You can also set color temperature for any of the modes.

(Credit: Kodak)

The image quality for 1080p SDR material was at the high end of the range for inexpensive mini projectors. Colors were well saturated, and color coverage was far better than merely good enough. The image lost some shadow detail, but even in the darkest scenes in our test clips I could still make out what was going on. Brightly lit scenes delivered deep enough contrast along with broad enough color coverage.

Even better, the HD9 handled 4K HDR input well, despite officially supporting neither 4K nor HDR. Brighter scenes were a little darker than they should be, but shadow detail in both dark scenes and dark areas in otherwise bright scenes was noticeably improved compared with the SDR versions of the same scenes in the same movies.

As is standard for single-chip LCD mini projectors, this one has no support for 3D.

The HD9's input lag is suitable for strictly casual gaming. I measured it using a Bodnar meter at 72 milliseconds for 1080p 60Hz input.


Verdict: A Fine Choice for Dark Rooms and Small Screens

The HD9's low brightness makes it best suited for viewing in a dark room or in a backyard (assuming you have a convenient outdoor power outlet) on dark nights only. Within that context, however, it can deliver image quality that's better than typical for a mini projector, and its built-in Android TV plus Netflix will let you stream movies and video from any location that can connect to the internet.

With that in mind, if you want a larger image, consider any of the other projectors mentioned above. The Vankyo V700W is the brightest, while the NexiGo PJ20—which proved as bright as the Kodak HD10 on our tests—is the least expensive at this writing. The HD10 is the only one of these three with built-in streaming features, but you can always add a third-party streaming dongle to either the V700W or PJ20 if you need to.

Final Thoughts

Kodak Flik HD9 Smart Projector - Kodak Flik HD9 Smart Projector

Kodak Flik HD9 Smart Projector

3.5 Good

The Kodak Flik HD9 produces better image quality than most competitors, making it a decent mini projector as long as you don't mind that it's not battery-powered and that low brightness limits its usable image size.

Get It Now

Buy It Now

About Our Expert

M. David Stone

M. David Stone

Contributing Editor

My Experience

Most of my current work for PCMag is about printers and projectors, but I've covered a wide variety of other subjects—in more than 4,000 pieces, over more than 40 years—including both computer-related areas and others ranging from ape language experiments, to politics, to cosmology, to space colonies. I've written for PCMag.com from its start, and for PC Magazine before that, as a Contributor, then a Contributing Editor, then as the Lead Analyst for Printers, Scanners, and Projectors, and now, after a short hiatus, back to Contributing Editor.

I'm pretty sure I'm the only person who worked on every "Project Printer" blockbuster PCMag ever produced, often writing 15 or more reviews for the year's big printer blowout. (I snuck in a single review one year when I was writing a book, strictly so I could keep that claim alive.)

I've always worked for PCMag as a freelancer, which has freed me to take time away to write nine books, be a major contributor to four others, and write for other publications, including Wired, Computer Shopper, Projector Central, and Science Digest, where I was Computers Editor. I also wrote a computer column at one point for The Newark Star-Ledger.

Although I started my career primarily as a science (mostly physics and astronomy) and science-fiction writer (published in Analog), my non-computer-related work runs the gamut from the Project Data Book for NASA's Upper Atmosphere Research Satellite (written for GE's Astro-Space Division) to the script for a video overview of a top company in the gaming industry (that would be gambling, not video games). My books include The Underground Guide to Color Printers (Addison-Wesley), Troubleshooting Your PC (Microsoft Press), and Faster, Smarter Digital Photography (Microsoft Press).

Having covered a wide range of subjects, I've developed a serial expertise in many of them. The ones most relevant to my current work at PCMag.com are all imaging technologies.

The Technology I Use

I buy new PCs for my writing desk infrequently, because it takes a week or more to customize the settings the way I want them. At the moment, I have an HP Envy tower running Windows 10, but it's old enough to have a Windows 7 sticker on it. Its latest lease on a longer life is courtesy of a newly installed 500GB Samsung SSD 870 EVO.

Elsewhere in my house is an assortment of older and newer PCs. The older ones are dedicated to specific tasks, like the one I've been using to slowly digitize all the paper stored in my filing cabinets, while the newer ones are testbeds for printer and projector reviews.

For writing, I use Microsoft Word 2003, because I find it too annoying to take my hands off the keyboard to give mouse commands using the Ribbon. My workhorse printers are a Xerox Phaser 6280 color laser and a Dymo LabelWriter 450 Twin Turbo for labels and stamps. I also have a Canon Pixma iP8720 for printing photos, and a Canon ImageFormula DR-C225 for scanning.

My first computer was bought to replace my IBM Selectric for writing. After rejecting both the IBM PC (which had just been introduced) and the Apple II because of the keyboards, I chose a Vector Graphics Vector 3 CP/M machine with dual floppies. The first MS-DOS machine I was willing to use for writing was the IBM AT, with its much-improved keyboard compared with the original PC and its gargantuan 20MB hard drive.

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