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Fujifilm Fujinon XC 13-33mm F3.5-6.3 OIS

 & Jim Fisher Principal Writer, Cameras

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Fujifilm Fujinon XC 13-33mm F3.5-6.3 OIS - Fujifilm Fujinon XC 13-33mm F3.5-6.3 OIS
3.5 Good

The Bottom Line

The Fujifilm Fujinon XC 13-33mm F3.5-6.3 OIS lens earns points for its extra-wide starting angle, compact build, and optical stabilization, but if you're paying full price, it's worth spending more on an F2.8 zoom.

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Pros & Cons

    • Extra-wide starting angle
    • Light and compact
    • Good picture quality
    • Fast focus with minimal breathing
    • Short zoom limits portrait opportunities
    • Dim aperture falls short for blurred backgrounds

Fujifilm Fujinon XC 13-33mm F3.5-6.3 OIS Specs

Dimensions 1.5 x 2.4 inches
Filter Thread 49
Focal Length (Telephoto) 33
Focal Length (Wide) 13
Focus Type Autofocus
Full-Frame Equivalent (Telephoto) 50
Full-Frame Equivalent (Wide) 20
Mount Fujifilm X
Optical Stabilization Optical
Weight 4.4
Zoom Ratio 2.5 x

The Fujinon XC 13-33mm F3.5-6.3 OIS ($399.95) is a kit lens, a class of affordable zoom that's often tossed in at a discount when you buy a camera, and is aimed squarely at photographers who are just getting started with interchangeable lenses. It captures wider views and is just as easy to carry as the long running XC 15-45mm F3.5-5.6 OIS PZ that Fuji bundles with some of its cameras, but the wider coverage comes with a cost—the 13-33mm sacrifices zoom power, doesn't blur backgrounds as readily, and omits the video friendly power zoom feature from the 15-45mm. The wider coverage is handy for cityscapes, architecture, and epic vistas, but it falls short as a do-it-all for everyday photography. It's a good deal if you're getting it at a discount, but if you're not buying a new camera, you're better off stretching your budget to get a lens like our Editors' Choice, the Tamron 17-70mm F2.8 Di III-A VC RXD ($799.99), which justifies its higher price with more zoom power and a brighter, background-blurring aperure.

Design: A Tiny, Retractable Zoom

The XC 13-33mm F3.5-6.3 OIS is one of the smallest, lightest zoom lenses you'll find. It's made with a retractable design that pulls the optical block into the lens barrel for storage and transport, and telescopes out with a twist to start taking photos. Because of this, the lens measures just 1.5 by 2.4 inches (HD) at its shortest, versus 3.3 by 2.4 inches when extended and ready to take photos. It's light at 4.4 ounces, works with 49mm front filters, and supports optical stabilization, too.

(Credit: Jim Fisher)

I'll admit, it's a feat to make a zoom this small, especially one that catches such a wide angle to start. There are trade-offs versus larger, pricier lenses, though. The 13-33mm doesn't have that much zoom power, nor does it have a bright aperture, so it's not a great choice for use in dim light or for background-blurring portraits. The Tamron 17-70mm F2.8 betters it for sure, though it is a lot more to carry at 4.7 by 2.9 inches and 1.2 pounds. There are lightweight options to consider, though; the Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 DC DN Contemporary (2.9 by 2.6 inches, 10.2 ounces) and Fujifilm XF 16-50mm F2.8-4.8 R LM WR (2.8 by 2.6 inches, 8.5 ounces) are standout small zooms for the Fuji X system.

Fujifilm X-T30 III, 13mm, f/5.6, 1/480-second, ISO 160
(Credit: Jim Fisher)

Apart from the optical glass inside, the XC 13-33mm is all plastic, even the bayonet mount that attaches to the camera. It doesn't feel chintzy, though. Fuji uses sturdy polycarbonate materials that can hold up to everyday use. And while the plastic mount isn't as durable as the metal connection that most lenses use, it has hardly any weight to support.

Controls and Focus: As Basic as It Gets

The XC 13-33mm keeps the controls simple. It has a zoom ring to change the focal length, along with a manual focus ring. I expect most creators starting out with the lens will use autofocus, but the manual focus experience is quite good. The focus ring turns with a little bit of resistance; it doesn't feel loose or sloppy, and there's no discernible lag. Autofocus is fast and quiet. The lens switches from distant to close subjects in a snap.

(Credit: Jim Fisher)

The zoom focuses to 7.9 inches throughout its range, so it gets its best macro and close-up photos at the 33mm setting. Its magnification rating is 1:4, which means the lens projects objects onto the sensor at quarter life-size when focused as close as possible. I took the lens to a botanical garden and got good close-up photos of flowers, but it doesn't focus close enough to catch really tiny details. For that, look at a dedicated macro prime with 1:1 reproduction, the Fujinon XF 30mm F2.8 R LM WR Macro.

Fujifilm X-T30 III, 33mm, f/6.3, 1/100-second, ISO 250
(Credit: Jim Fisher)

Optical stabilization is included, too. I tested the 13-33mm with the X-T30 III (the only camera it's bundled with at this time), which does not have its own stabilization system. I'm able to manage half-second handheld exposures without any sign of blur from hand shake, and can stretch the shutter to 1-second with hit-or-miss results.

Image Quality: Narrow Aperture Delivers Deep Focus Look

I tested the XC 13-33mm in my home studio with Imatest and an SFRplus chart to check its resolving power, and took it out into the world for photos to get a handle on its character. The lens delivers typical performance for a starter zoom. It scores in the excellent range for a 26MP sensor (3,000-3,500 lines) at every focal length I tested it (13mm, 23mm, 33mm) using our standard center-weighted scoring. Edges and corners are soft at wide apertures. To get the uniformly crisp look that you'll want for landscape and cityscape scenes, you'll have to set the aperture to f/5.6-8 at 13mm and f/8-11 at 23mm and 33mm.

Fujifilm X-T30 III, 18mm, f/8, 1/110-second, ISO 160
(Credit: Jim Fisher)

The aperture narrows down through f/22, but it's not worthwhile to use the lens at settings smaller than f/11 as diffraction cuts into picture quality, and there's no real benefit as the optics don't deliver good sunstars. On the plus side, flare is not an issue at any aperture. You can take photos directly into a bright light source without having to worry about losing contrast or creating ghosts of false color. That's likely a consequence of the narrow aperture and small front element; brighter zooms and primes tend to have more issues with flare and ghost color.

Fujifilm X-T30 III, 13mm, f/4, 1/220-seocnd, ISO 160 (left); 33mm f/6.3, 1/640-second, ISO 160 (right)
(Credit: Jim Fisher)

The zoom relies heavily on digital corrections to remove distortion and brighten its corners to match the center. If you're using your camera for JPGs or video, or processing Raw images in-camera, the corrections are applied automatically and transparently. However, advanced-level creators who want to edit Raw images in a desktop app will want to use a correction profile to remove the barrel distortion the zoom shows at wide angles. Adobe Lightroom and Lightroom Classic apply the profile automatically when importing images, so it's not a major hurdle, but you should check your preferred workflow application to ensure that it supports the lens if you don't live in the Adobe ecosystem.

Fujifilm X-T30 III, 30mm, f/6.1, 1/100-second, ISO 320
(Credit: Jim Fisher)

You can coax some bokeh from the lens with effort, but the XC 13-33mm isn't great at blurring backgrounds away into nothing in most situations. The wide angle and narrow maximum aperture are more prone to capturing photos with deep focus. You can get softer backdrops for close-ups, though, but unless you have a totally clean background behind your subject, as I found for the preceding macro image of a blue poppy flower, you'll be unable to identify objects. If softened backgrounds are a priority, the Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 DC DN Contemporary, Fujifilm XF 16-50mm F2.8-4 R LM WR, or Tamron 17-70mm F2.8 Di III-A VC RXD are all better lenses to use.

Fujifilm X-T30 III, 14mm, f/3.7, 1/100-second, ISO 200
(Credit: Jim Fisher)

Final Thoughts

Fujifilm Fujinon XC 13-33mm F3.5-6.3 OIS - Fujifilm Fujinon XC 13-33mm F3.5-6.3 OIS

Fujifilm Fujinon XC 13-33mm F3.5-6.3 OIS

3.5 Good

The Fujifilm Fujinon XC 13-33mm F3.5-6.3 OIS lens earns points for its extra-wide starting angle, compact build, and optical stabilization, but if you're paying full price, it's worth spending more on an F2.8 zoom.

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About Our Expert

Jim Fisher

Jim Fisher

Principal Writer, Cameras

My Experience

Images, and the devices that capture them, are my focus. I've covered cameras at PCMag for the past 14 years, which has given me a front row seat for the changeover from DSLRs to mirrorless cameras, the smartphone camera revolution, and the emergence of drones for aerial imaging. I have extensive experience with every major mirrorless and SLR system, and am also comfortable using point-and-shoot and action cameras. As a Part 107 Certified drone pilot, I’m licensed to fly unmanned aircraft systems (UAS) for commercial and editorial purposes, and am knowledgeable about federal rules and regulations regarding drones.

The Technology I Use

I use all of the major camera systems on a regular basis, swapping between Canon, Fujifilm, L-Mount, Micro Four Thirds, Nikon, and Sony systems. I still find time to use Leica M rangefinders and Pentax SLRs on occasion, too. I keep an iPhone 13 in my pocket for the rare occasions I'm not carrying a camera.

I'm not a brand-specific photographer. For product review photos, I swap between a Canon EOS R5 and a Sony a7R IV. I use Flashpoint and Godox TTL lights and Peak Design tripods, and I most often reach for a Think Tank or Peak Design backpack to carry equipment.

When it comes to computers, I'm an unapologetic Mac person and have been for the past 20 years. I write in Pages and use Numbers for spreadsheets. I currently swap between an Intel i9 MacBook Pro and an Apple Silicon Mac Studio for writing and use a calibrated BenQ 32.5-inch with the Studio for photo and video editing. I rely on a LaCie 6big RAID for media storage. I also keep a PC around for gaming, but please don't tell my Macs about it; they'll get jealous.

I split time between several different software apps depending on the type of editing I'm doing. For Raw image processing, Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic is my standard. I pair it with a LoupeDeck CT console to supplement my keyboard and trackpad, and I lean on RNI All Films 5 presets when I want to give an image a film look. I use Apple Final Cut Pro for video editing.

My first digital camera was the Canon PowerShot Elph S200, and my first DSLR was the Pentax *ist DL. I have a soft spot for antique film gear. I still use a 1950 vintage Rolleiflex Automat TLR and love trying mid-century Leica lenses on film and digital alike. I mainly use whatever's in front of me for review for digital snaps, but I pick up either my Leica M Typ 240 or Pentax K-3 III Monochrome when I want to step away from review work. In my downtime, I enjoy bird watching, reading, video games, and both good and bad movies, especially in the sci-fi and horror genres.

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