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Optoma HD8300

 & M. David Stone Contributing Editor

Our team tests, rates, and reviews more than 1,500 products each year to help you make better buying decisions and get more from technology.

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The Optoma HD8300 home theater projector delivers excellent image quality for both 2D and 3D at up to 1080p. - Optoma HD8300
4.0 Excellent

The Bottom Line

Typically sold by custom installers, the Optoma HD8300 home theater projector is aimed at those who want high-quality home theater and are willing to pay for it.

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Pros & Cons

    • 1080p resolution for both 2D and 3D.
    • Accepts 3D signals directly from Blu-ray players, cable TV boxes, and equivalent.
    • Does not include 3D glasses.
    • Although notably minor for a single-chip DLP projector, rainbow artifacts still show.

Optoma HD8300 Specs

Aspect Ratio: 16:9
Built-In Speakers: No
Computer Interfaces: Analog VGA
Depth: 19.3 inches
Engine Type: DLP
Height: 7.6 inches
Keystone (Optical or Digital): Digital
Lens Shift: Horizontal
Lens Shift: Vertical
Rated Brightness: 1500 ANSI lumens
Rated Contrast Ratio: 30000:1
Remote Mouse Support: No
RGB Pass-through Connector: No
Supported Video Formats: 1080i
Supported Video Formats: 480i
Supported Video Formats: 480p
Supported Video Formats: 576i
Supported Video Formats: 576p
Supported Video Formats: 720p
Type: Consumer
Video Interfaces: Component
Video Interfaces: Composite
Video Interfaces: HDMI
Warranty Labor: 36 months
Warranty Parts: 36 months
Weight: 18.5 lb
Wi-Fi connectivity: No
Width: 14.6 inches
Wireless Connectivity: No
Wireless Remote Control: Yes
Zoom (Optical or Digital): Optical

You don't have to look any further than the $4,499 list price to know that the Optoma HD8300 is aimed at serious videophiles rather than typical consumers. In fact, it's sold primarily by the sort of custom dealer who will normally install and calibrate the projector for you, if not build your entire home theater. If that's the class of projector you're looking for, the HD8300 is easily up to job, with great-looking images in both 2D and 3D at up to 1080p resolution.

Not too surprisingly, the HD8300 shares some important features with the Optoma HD33 ($1,500, 4 stars) that I recently reviewed. In particular it offers a similar frame interpolation feature to eliminate judder—the slightly jerky motion that's built into filmed content because of the standard 24 frame per second speed for film. It also shares the HD33's 3D support for both DLP-link glass and RF glasses, which are currently less common.

As with the HD33, the HD8300's DLP-Link support is built into the projector. The RF support uses an external RF emitter that comes with the projector and plugs into its VESA 3D port. The advantage for RF glasses is that you don't have to maintain a line of sight connection to keep the glasses synched for 3D, which means you won't lose sync if you look away from the screen for a moment. Note too that the projector doesn't come with any glasses, so whichever kind you want, you'll have to buy them separately, at $100 each for the rechargeable Optoma models.

Because it's worth it

Of course, at roughly three times the price, you would expect the HD8300 to deliver some significant advantages over the HD33 as well, and it does. Among other features, it offers a 1.5x manual zoom to give you far more flexibility in how far you can put the projector from the screen for a given size image. It also offers both vertical and horizontal lens shift, so you can shift the image up, down, left, and right without moving the projector.

Optoma says the vertical shift is plus or minus 65% from the midpoint, and the horizontal shift is less than plus or minus 10% from the midpoint. That's less than with some other projectors, like the somewhat less expensive Sony VPL-HW30ES ($3,700 street, 4 stars) or the Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350 ($1299 direct, 4 stars), for example, but it's enough to be helpful.

A much more important advantage for the HD8300 over the HD33 is that it has still less of a rainbow effect. Rainbow artifacts, with light areas breaking up into little red-green-blue rainbows, are a potential issue for any single-chip DLP projector, because of the way the technology creates colors, showing each primary color in sequence, rather that showing them all at once.

When I reviewed the HD33, I pointed out that I saw rainbow artifacts with it less often than with most DLP projectors. I saw them even less often with the HD8300. I'd still rather have a projector that doesn't show rainbow artifacts at all, but unless you—or someone you regularly watch with—are extremely sensitive to seeing the rainbow effect (as I am), you probably won't see them with the HD8300.

Setup and Brightness

Setup isn't much of an issue, given that the dealer is likely to be doing it for you. Even so, it's worth knowing that this is a relatively big projector, at 7.6 by 14.6 by 19.3 inches (HWD), and it offers a fairly typical set of connectors, including two HDMI ports for video sources or a computer, a VGA port for a computer or component video, three phono plugs for component video, and a composite video port. As is common with home theater projectors, there are no audio ports, and no audio system.

Optoma rates the projector in its brightest mode at 1,500 lumens. That would make it far too bright for the size screen you're most likely to have in the projector's natural home, which is a traditional home theater setup with theater-dark lighting. With that in mind, the default lamp setting uses the lowest brightness for the lamp, which Optoma calls the standard setting. And, as is typical with projectors, the Cinema mode setting is noticeably dimmer than the brightest mode.

With these default settings, the projector offers the appropriate brightness for the 78-inch wide image (90-inch diagonal at 1080p) that we generally use for testing. For a larger screen, or for a room with ambient light, you can switch to a brighter setting.

Image Quality

Our 2D tests include both DVDs upscaled to 1080p and Blu-ray discs. The HD8300 showed just a hint of posterization (shading changing suddenly where it should change gradually) in one scene that many projectors have problems with, but if I weren't looking for it, I might not have noticed. In every other scene, and in every other way, the image quality was excellent. The projector did a good job with color, skin tones, shadow detail (maintaining details based on shading in dark areas), and maintaining details in bright areas. I also saw little to no noise.

As I already noted, the projector scored remarkably better than most DLP projectors for rainbow artifacts. I saw them in black and white footage in night scenes, but hardly at all otherwise. It's unlikely that even those who are sensitive to seeing the artifacts will find them objectionable.

Optoma's PureMotion feature, the frame interpolation that I mentioned earlier, worked as promised to remove judder. As with the same feature in the HD33 and the equivalent MotionFlow feature in the Sony VPL-HW30ES, however, it also adds artifacts in its highest setting that I find distracting. I found the lowest setting in all three projectors to be the best compromise, and I found the low setting in the two Optoma projectors more watchable than the low setting for the VPL-HW30ES. However, this is a matter of personal taste, and you may feel differently.

You may even want to turn the feature off altogether. Adding the interpolated frames gives movies much the same look and feel as live video. Some people, including me, find that the improvement just doesn't look right, a reaction that can make it hard to ignore how the image looks and simply watch the movie.

The HD8300 also did well on 3D tests. It offers HDMI 1.4a ports so you can show 3D from a Blu-ray player, cable, FIOS, or equivalent source without needing a video converter. More important, with both 3D Blu-ray discs and a direct connection to FIOS, the HD8300 delivered good image quality and I saw only an occasional hint of crosstalk (the blurriness, or ghost image, that shows when the frame meant for one eye leaks through to the other eye as well.)

Ultimately, the Optoma HD8300 gets high marks and an enthusiastic recommendation, but with an important hedge. If you see rainbow artifacts easily, you might find them all the more annoying after spending this much on a projector. In that case, you might prefer an alternative, like the Sony VPL-HW30ES, which is based on a technology that can't show rainbow artifacts. But for those who aren't sensitive to the effect, or don't mind seeing an occasional rainbow, the enthusiastic recommendation stands.

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Final Thoughts

The Optoma HD8300 home theater projector delivers excellent image quality for both 2D and 3D at up to 1080p. - Optoma HD8300

Optoma HD8300

4.0 Excellent

Typically sold by custom installers, the Optoma HD8300 home theater projector is aimed at those who want high-quality home theater and are willing to pay for it.

Get It Now

Buy It Now

About Our Expert

M. David Stone

M. David Stone

Contributing Editor

My Experience

Most of my current work for PCMag is about printers and projectors, but I've covered a wide variety of other subjects—in more than 4,000 pieces, over more than 40 years—including both computer-related areas and others ranging from ape language experiments, to politics, to cosmology, to space colonies. I've written for PCMag.com from its start, and for PC Magazine before that, as a Contributor, then a Contributing Editor, then as the Lead Analyst for Printers, Scanners, and Projectors, and now, after a short hiatus, back to Contributing Editor.

I'm pretty sure I'm the only person who worked on every "Project Printer" blockbuster PCMag ever produced, often writing 15 or more reviews for the year's big printer blowout. (I snuck in a single review one year when I was writing a book, strictly so I could keep that claim alive.)

I've always worked for PCMag as a freelancer, which has freed me to take time away to write nine books, be a major contributor to four others, and write for other publications, including Wired, Computer Shopper, Projector Central, and Science Digest, where I was Computers Editor. I also wrote a computer column at one point for The Newark Star-Ledger.

Although I started my career primarily as a science (mostly physics and astronomy) and science-fiction writer (published in Analog), my non-computer-related work runs the gamut from the Project Data Book for NASA's Upper Atmosphere Research Satellite (written for GE's Astro-Space Division) to the script for a video overview of a top company in the gaming industry (that would be gambling, not video games). My books include The Underground Guide to Color Printers (Addison-Wesley), Troubleshooting Your PC (Microsoft Press), and Faster, Smarter Digital Photography (Microsoft Press).

Having covered a wide range of subjects, I've developed a serial expertise in many of them. The ones most relevant to my current work at PCMag.com are all imaging technologies.

The Technology I Use

I buy new PCs for my writing desk infrequently, because it takes a week or more to customize the settings the way I want them. At the moment, I have an HP Envy tower running Windows 10, but it's old enough to have a Windows 7 sticker on it. Its latest lease on a longer life is courtesy of a newly installed 500GB Samsung SSD 870 EVO.

Elsewhere in my house is an assortment of older and newer PCs. The older ones are dedicated to specific tasks, like the one I've been using to slowly digitize all the paper stored in my filing cabinets, while the newer ones are testbeds for printer and projector reviews.

For writing, I use Microsoft Word 2003, because I find it too annoying to take my hands off the keyboard to give mouse commands using the Ribbon. My workhorse printers are a Xerox Phaser 6280 color laser and a Dymo LabelWriter 450 Twin Turbo for labels and stamps. I also have a Canon Pixma iP8720 for printing photos, and a Canon ImageFormula DR-C225 for scanning.

My first computer was bought to replace my IBM Selectric for writing. After rejecting both the IBM PC (which had just been introduced) and the Apple II because of the keyboards, I chose a Vector Graphics Vector 3 CP/M machine with dual floppies. The first MS-DOS machine I was willing to use for writing was the IBM AT, with its much-improved keyboard compared with the original PC and its gargantuan 20MB hard drive.

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