PCMag editors select and review products independently. If you buy through affiliate links, we may earn commissions, which help support our testing.

How to Choose the Right Monitor for Photo Editing

 & Jim Fisher Principal Writer, Cameras

Our team tests, rates, and reviews more than 1,500 products each year to help you make better buying decisions and get more from technology.

Our Expert
LOOK INSIDE PC LABS HOW WE TEST
65 EXPERTS
43 YEARS
41,500+ REVIEWS

There are all types of LCD monitors, from the bargain-basement models that are fine for Web browsing and light office work, to those  aimed at gamers who care mainly about the highest refresh rate for smooth gameplay and domination of opponents. Photographers and other professionals who are concerned with translating what's on the screen to a print or photobook with accurate color reproduction have their own set of priorities and wants in an LCD. Here are a few things to look for when buying one.

Color Gamut

Wide-gamut monitors, which can select from a palate of over a billion colors, are the cat's meow when it comes to photography. If you're working with a 14-bit or 16-bit RAW file, you'll want to get a display that can show you the subtleties contained within each image you capture. A digital connection,  such as DisplayPort, Thunderbolt, or DVI, is a must as well. Look for a display with an In-Plane Switching (IPS) panel and least an 8-bit lookup table (LUT); it will be able to pull images from a palate of 16.7 million colors. Moving to a top-end panel with a 10-bit LUT expands that number to more than a billion—generally speaking. To achieve that number, though, you'll need a display from a manufacturer that caters to photographers, such as Eizo, and it will likely be prohibitively expensive.  

Integrated Calibration Tools

Displays can ship with a calibration tool bundled in, and some even have internal systems that put the calibration sensor right into the display. Most will ship with an external colorimeter that you drape over the monitor to calibrate it—this shows a series of color patches and uses software to create an ICC profile to properly adjust colors. When combined with a separate ICC profile for your printer and paper type, you can use soft proofing tools like those found in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom to see how your prints will look on paper, on your display. If your LCD doesn't ship with a calibration tool, consider getting the X-Rite ColorMunki Display or the Datacolor Spyder4 PRO. You'll want to calibrate your monitor at least once every 30 days.

Finish
Matte displays can be calibrated more accurately, and tend to show a truer image when compared with the more popular high-gloss displays, which give colors an oversaturated look. And you won't have to deal with as many reflections.

Hood
Depending on your work environment and just how critical your work is, consider a display with a hood. It will block ambient light that comes at your display from the sides and top, so you've got won't have to worry about light coming in from the window affecting how your display looks at different points in the day. You can find third-party generic hoods for notebooks and for the iMac, but you're best off opting for a display that has a dedicated hood from the manufacturer included or available as an accessory for the best fit.

Size and Resolution
To steal the tagline from that awful Matthew Broderick Godzilla movie, size matters. Go with as big a display as your workspace and budget can afford, and one with an appropriately dense resolution. Remember that a 1,920-by-1,080 display is only 2 megapixels—if you're shooting with a 20-megapixel SLR, that's nothing. Thankfully, this will come naturally when looking for one that hits the other features. Most 27-inch models sport a 2,560-by-1,440 resolution, and there are some 4K (3,840-by-2,160) displays on the market. You can opt for a smaller display if it's going to be your secondary screen—iMac users can load up the majority of Lightroom's tools on the glossy 27-inch display to browse through catalogs and make adjustments, while viewing a full-screen version of the image on which you're working on the second monitor. But I wouldn't go smaller than 24 inches.

Those are the high points—obviously you'll want to read some reviews before investing in a display for your personal photography work or business. Just how often you print and how demanding your clients are—these good guidelines to figure out how much you want to spend on a monitor. If you're a hobbyist who prints occasionally and shares many photos online, you won't need to spend for a top-end display that a high-end wedding photographer who counts on perfect prints in order to put food on the table.

You can peruse our Monitors Product Guide for a list of all of the models that we've reviewed.

About Our Expert

Jim Fisher

Jim Fisher

Principal Writer, Cameras

My Experience

Images, and the devices that capture them, are my focus. I've covered cameras at PCMag for the past 14 years, which has given me a front row seat for the changeover from DSLRs to mirrorless cameras, the smartphone camera revolution, and the emergence of drones for aerial imaging. I have extensive experience with every major mirrorless and SLR system, and am also comfortable using point-and-shoot and action cameras. As a Part 107 Certified drone pilot, I’m licensed to fly unmanned aircraft systems (UAS) for commercial and editorial purposes, and am knowledgeable about federal rules and regulations regarding drones.

The Technology I Use

I use all of the major camera systems on a regular basis, swapping between Canon, Fujifilm, L-Mount, Micro Four Thirds, Nikon, and Sony systems. I still find time to use Leica M rangefinders and Pentax SLRs on occasion, too. I keep an iPhone 13 in my pocket for the rare occasions I'm not carrying a camera.

I'm not a brand-specific photographer. For product review photos, I swap between a Canon EOS R5 and a Sony a7R IV. I use Flashpoint and Godox TTL lights and Peak Design tripods, and I most often reach for a Think Tank or Peak Design backpack to carry equipment.

When it comes to computers, I'm an unapologetic Mac person and have been for the past 20 years. I write in Pages and use Numbers for spreadsheets. I currently swap between an Intel i9 MacBook Pro and an Apple Silicon Mac Studio for writing and use a calibrated BenQ 32.5-inch with the Studio for photo and video editing. I rely on a LaCie 6big RAID for media storage. I also keep a PC around for gaming, but please don't tell my Macs about it; they'll get jealous.

I split time between several different software apps depending on the type of editing I'm doing. For Raw image processing, Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic is my standard. I pair it with a LoupeDeck CT console to supplement my keyboard and trackpad, and I lean on RNI All Films 5 presets when I want to give an image a film look. I use Apple Final Cut Pro for video editing.

My first digital camera was the Canon PowerShot Elph S200, and my first DSLR was the Pentax *ist DL. I have a soft spot for antique film gear. I still use a 1950 vintage Rolleiflex Automat TLR and love trying mid-century Leica lenses on film and digital alike. I mainly use whatever's in front of me for review for digital snaps, but I pick up either my Leica M Typ 240 or Pentax K-3 III Monochrome when I want to step away from review work. In my downtime, I enjoy bird watching, reading, video games, and both good and bad movies, especially in the sci-fi and horror genres.

Read full bio