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BenQ W1080ST

 & M. David Stone Contributing Editor

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BenQ W1080ST - BenQ W1080ST
3.5 Good

The Bottom Line

The BenQ W1080ST 3D home entertainment projector offers a short throw, high-quality 1080p video, and 3D, plus it's bright enough to let you leave the lights on.
Best Deal£851.64

Buy It Now

£851.64

Pros & Cons

    • Short-throw lens.
    • Works directly with HDMI 1.4a devices like Blu-ray players and cable TV for 2D and full 1080p 3D.
    • Doesn't work with 120Hz DLP-link glasses for 3D; needs 144Hz glasses.

BenQ W1080ST Specs

Engine Type DLP
Inputs and Interfaces Analog VGA
Inputs and Interfaces HDMI
Native Resolution 1920 by 1080
Rated Brightness 2000
Warranty 12
Weight 6.2

If you look at BenQ's Web site, or just compare features and specs, you'll probably wind up thinking that except for its short-throw lens, the BenQ W1080ST($949.46 at Amazon) is essentially identical to the BenQ W1070($455.00 at Amazon). However, the differences go deeper. Most important, the W1080ST offers somewhat more watchable video, which is at least arguably more important than the short throw in making it worth the extra cost.

Of course, the two projectors have a lot in common as well. Both are built around DLP engines with a native 1,920 by 1,080 resolution, both offer full 1080p 3D support, and both are definitively home entertainment projectors, meant for a living room or family room, rather than home theater projectors, like the 2D Editors' Choice Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350, which are meant for theater dark lighting.

The brighter environment of a family room or living room demands a brighter projector than you need for a home theater. BenQ rates the W1080ST at 2,000 lumens. Assuming a 1.0 gain screen and theater-dark lighting, that would be bright enough for a screen size of more than 20 -inches diagonally and too bright for comfortable viewing at significantly smaller sizes.

With a moderate level of ambient light in a family room, however, the screen size would need to be only about 130 inches. That's still unusually large for home use, but switching to the lamp's Eco mode and dropping to a lower brightness preset brings the brightness down to a level suitable for more appropriate screen sizes.

Basics and Setup

Like the W1070, the W1080ST is small and light for a 1080p 3D projector, at 6.2 pounds and 4.1 by 12.3 by 9.6 inches (HWD). That makes it easy to store away when you're not using it, if you choose not to permanently install it, and also easy to move from room to room or bring to a friend's house.

The back panel offers a reasonably full set of connectors, including two HDMI 1.4a ports that support 3D as well 2D for direct connection to Blu-ray players, cable and FIOS boxes, and the like. Other image inputs include a set of three RCA connectors for component video, an S-video port, and the usual VGA and composite video ports.

Setup is typical, with a 1.2x manual zoom offering flexibility in the distance from the screen for a given image size. For my tests, I used a 78-inch wide (90-inch diagonal) image with the projector about 88 inches from the screen.

I ran into one setup issue that you might consider either critical or irrelevant, depending on how you plan to use the projector. Despite working without a problem at its native 1,920 by 1,080 resolution with a Blu-ray player and with a computer over an analog (VGA) connection, the W1080ST wouldn't work properly in my tests with a computer using a digital (HDMI) connection. Given that BenQ says it should work, the issue may be related to the specific graphics card in the system I used for testing. However, any number of other projectors—including the BenQ W1070—have worked with the same graphics card without problems.

If you don't plan to connect to a computer, or don't mind using an analog connection, this won't matter. If you want to show video from your computer using a digital connection for the best possible image, however, this will obviously be an issue.

Brightness, Image Quality, and Rainbows

The W1080ST was easily bright enough, for the 90-inch diagonal image I used, to stand up to the typical ambient light in a family room. Very much on the plus side is that its measured color brightness is 77 to 79 percent of its white brightness, depending on the color mode. That translates to little difference between the perceived brightness of a color image versus a solid white screen. More important for home entertainment use, the high ratio of color to white brightness also tends to indicate good color quality.

Indeed, the color quality, and image quality in general, was good to excellent in my tests, with the projector handling most of our test clips without notable problems. I saw an exceedingly mild loss of shadow detail (details based on shading in dark areas) but only in one scene that tends to cause the problem. I also saw some hard-to-miss noise in solid dark areas in night scenes, with little to no improvement even with the Noise Reduction setting at maximum. However, solid areas like an expanse of sky in bright scenes showed only the minimal noise that's typical for projectors in this price range.

On the plus side, in addition to delivering excellent color quality, the projector handled skin tones well, and I didn't see any motion artifacts or posterization (shading changing suddenly where it should change gradually).

One potential issue for any single-chip DLP projector is rainbow artifacts, with light areas breaking up into little red-green-blue rainbows. I saw these artifacts more often with the W1080ST than with some projectors, but less often than with the W1070. Anyone who sees these rainbows easily, as I do, is sure to notice them. For my tastes, however, they didn't show often enough to count as a serious problem.

3D and Other Issues

BenQ doesn't include any 3D glasses with the W1080ST, and if you're upgrading from an older 3D projector that uses DLP-Link glasses, it's important to know that you shouldn't count on using your old glasses. Although BenQ says the projector should work with any DLP-link glasses that support 144Hz, it won't work with older DLP-link glasses that support 120Hz only. BenQ's glasses are $99 (direct) each.

Image quality in 3D was reasonably watchable, with good color quality, an appropriate sense of depth, and no crosstalk. However I saw lots of rainbow artifacts and a moderate level of 3D-related motion artifacts.

Note too that you'll probably want to connect to an external stereo sound system, since the W1080ST's 10-watt mono speaker delivers reasonable, but not terrific, quality.

If you consider rainbow artifacts absolutely unacceptable, you'll be better off with an LCD projector, like the 2D Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350 or the more expensive 3D Editors' Choice Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 3020e( at Amazon).

That said, if you don't see rainbow artifacts easily or don't mind seeing them, the BenQ W1080ST is worth considering, particularly if you don't plan to connect to a computer with a digital connection or can confirm beforehand that it will work with the computer you plan to connect to. It's bright enough to stand up to moderate ambient light, its short throw will give you a big image from a short distance, and it offers a reasonably high-quality image for both 2D and 3D. The combination makes it a potentially good fit for a family room or living room, whether instead of, or along with, an HDTV.

Best Projector Picks

Further Reading

Final Thoughts

BenQ W1080ST - BenQ W1080ST

BenQ W1080ST Review

3.5 Good

The BenQ W1080ST 3D home entertainment projector offers a short throw, high-quality 1080p video, and 3D, plus it's bright enough to let you leave the lights on.

Get It Now
Best Deal£851.64

Buy It Now

£851.64

About Our Expert

M. David Stone

M. David Stone

Contributing Editor

My Experience

Most of my current work for PCMag is about printers and projectors, but I've covered a wide variety of other subjects—in more than 4,000 pieces, over more than 40 years—including both computer-related areas and others ranging from ape language experiments, to politics, to cosmology, to space colonies. I've written for PCMag.com from its start, and for PC Magazine before that, as a Contributor, then a Contributing Editor, then as the Lead Analyst for Printers, Scanners, and Projectors, and now, after a short hiatus, back to Contributing Editor.

I'm pretty sure I'm the only person who worked on every "Project Printer" blockbuster PCMag ever produced, often writing 15 or more reviews for the year's big printer blowout. (I snuck in a single review one year when I was writing a book, strictly so I could keep that claim alive.)

I've always worked for PCMag as a freelancer, which has freed me to take time away to write nine books, be a major contributor to four others, and write for other publications, including Wired, Computer Shopper, Projector Central, and Science Digest, where I was Computers Editor. I also wrote a computer column at one point for The Newark Star-Ledger.

Although I started my career primarily as a science (mostly physics and astronomy) and science-fiction writer (published in Analog), my non-computer-related work runs the gamut from the Project Data Book for NASA's Upper Atmosphere Research Satellite (written for GE's Astro-Space Division) to the script for a video overview of a top company in the gaming industry (that would be gambling, not video games). My books include The Underground Guide to Color Printers (Addison-Wesley), Troubleshooting Your PC (Microsoft Press), and Faster, Smarter Digital Photography (Microsoft Press).

Having covered a wide range of subjects, I've developed a serial expertise in many of them. The ones most relevant to my current work at PCMag.com are all imaging technologies.

The Technology I Use

I buy new PCs for my writing desk infrequently, because it takes a week or more to customize the settings the way I want them. At the moment, I have an HP Envy tower running Windows 10, but it's old enough to have a Windows 7 sticker on it. Its latest lease on a longer life is courtesy of a newly installed 500GB Samsung SSD 870 EVO.

Elsewhere in my house is an assortment of older and newer PCs. The older ones are dedicated to specific tasks, like the one I've been using to slowly digitize all the paper stored in my filing cabinets, while the newer ones are testbeds for printer and projector reviews.

For writing, I use Microsoft Word 2003, because I find it too annoying to take my hands off the keyboard to give mouse commands using the Ribbon. My workhorse printers are a Xerox Phaser 6280 color laser and a Dymo LabelWriter 450 Twin Turbo for labels and stamps. I also have a Canon Pixma iP8720 for printing photos, and a Canon ImageFormula DR-C225 for scanning.

My first computer was bought to replace my IBM Selectric for writing. After rejecting both the IBM PC (which had just been introduced) and the Apple II because of the keyboards, I chose a Vector Graphics Vector 3 CP/M machine with dual floppies. The first MS-DOS machine I was willing to use for writing was the IBM AT, with its much-improved keyboard compared with the original PC and its gargantuan 20MB hard drive.

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